Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
